Waves

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The size of a wave depends on its fetch, wind speed and wind duration above the water. True or false?

A groyne at Hornsea on the Holderness Coast Internet Geography
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The size of a wave depends on its fetch, wind speed and wind duration above the water.

Waves are a disturbance on the surface of the sea or ocean, in the form of a moving ridge or swell. True or false?

Happisburgh, Norfolk
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Waves are a disturbance on the surface of the sea or ocean, in the form of a moving ridge or swell.

What is the fetch of a wave?

Deposition close to the mouth of Blakeley harbour. Internet Geography
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The fetch of a wave is the distance it has travelled.

True or false? As waves move into shallow water, they begin to stack up as frictional drag with the seabed increases, the base of the wave is slowed down, so the top part is travelling faster. This causes the wave to tilt, break and move towards the shore in the surf zone

Sea defences at Withernsea - view north Internet Geography
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The movement of a wave up a beach is known as what?

Aerial view of slumping at Hornsea Internet Geography
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The movement of water up a beach is known as swash.

Identify the type of wave is shown in the image above.

Waves
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The image shows a destructive wave. Destructive waves destroy beaches. The waves are usually very high, have a short wavelength and are very frequent. The wave has a steep front and is typically over 1 metre high. The backwash has less time to soak into the sand. As waves continue to hit the beach there is more running water to transport the material out to sea.

Identify the type of wave is shown in the image above.

constructive waves
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The image shows a constructive wave. Constructive waves have a long wavelength and a low-frequency (8–10 waves per minute). They have a low wave height (typically under 1 metre). The wavefront is gently sloping and gains a little height, breaks and spills onto the beach. Water spreads a long way up the gently sloping beach.

Which of the following are characteristics of constructive waves?

A beach on the Cies Islands Internet Geography
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Which of the following are characteristics of destructive waves?

Destructive Waves Internet Geography
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When are destructive waves most common?

Destructive wave Internet Geography
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Destructive waves are more common in winter when the wind is stronger.

Waves Quiz
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Awesome, well done! You have a good understanding of waves!
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