Weak swash, strong backwash.

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Constructive wave

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Destructive waves

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A wave is a disturbance on the surface of the sea or ocean, in the form of a moving ridge or swell.

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Waves are caused by the transfer of energy from the wind to the sea due to the friction of the wind on the water’s surface.

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The wearing away of land by the sea.

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Attrition is when waves cause rocks and pebbles to bump into each other and break up.

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Corrasion is when destructive waves pick up beach material (e.g. pebbles) and hurl them at the base of a cliff. Over time this can loosen cliff material forming a wave-cut notch.

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Corrosion/solution is when certain types of cliff erode as a result of weak acids in the sea.

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Abrasion occurs as breaking waves, concentrated between the high and low watermarks, which contain sand and larger fragments wear away the base of a cliff or headland. It is commonly known as the sandpaper effect. This process is particularly common in high-energy storm conditions.

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Chemical weathering is the breakdown of rock through changing its chemical composition.

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Freeze-thaw weathering occurs when rocks are porous (contain holes) or permeable (allow water to pass through). Water enters the rock and freezes. The ice expands by around 9%. This causes pressure on the rock until it cracks. Repeated freeze-thaw can cause the rock to break up.

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Recently weathered rock can be seen at the foot of chalk and limestone cliffs and is easily identified because it is angular.

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Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.

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Mechanical weathering is the breakdown of rock without changing its chemical structure (composition).

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Traction – large pebbles and boulders are rolled along the seafloor.

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The movement of sediment and beach material through wave action.

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Longshore drift happens when waves approach the beach at an angle. The swash (waves moving up the beach) carries material up and along the beach. The backwash (waves moving back down the beach) carries material back down the beach at right angles. This is the result of gravity. This process slowly moves material along the beach and provides a link between erosion and deposition. The material is transported through suspension, traction, solution and saltation. Longshore drift provides a link between erosion, transportation and deposition.

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Wave energy reduces leading to material being deposited.

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Beach material is suspended and carried by the waves.

Find out more about coastal tansportation.