A wave is a disturbance on the surface of the sea or ocean, in the form of a moving ridge or swell.
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The distance a wave has travelled.
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Fetch, wind speed and wind duration.
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Swash
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Weak swash, strong backwash.
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Coastal erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea.
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Corrasion is when destructive waves pick up beach material (e.g. pebbles) and hurl them at the base of a cliff. Over time this can loosen cliff material forming a wave-cut notch.
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Abrasion occurs as breaking waves, concentrated between the high and low watermarks, which contain sand and larger fragments wear away the base of a cliff or headland. It is commonly known as the sandpaper effect. This process is particularly common in high-energy storm conditions.
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The wearing away of land by the sea.
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Attrition is when waves cause rocks and pebbles to bump into each other and break up.
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Freeze-thaw weathering occurs when rocks are porous (contain holes) or permeable (allow water to pass through). Water enters the rock and freezes. The ice expands by around 9%. This causes pressure on the rock until it cracks. Repeated freeze-thaw can cause the rock to break up.
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Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.
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When rainwater hits rock it decomposes it or eats it away. This is known as carbonation. This occurs when slightly acidic (carbonic) rain or seawater comes into contact with sedimentary rock, such as limestone or chalk, it causes it to dissolve. A chemical reaction occurs between the acidic water and the calcium carbonate and forms calcium bicarbonate. This is soluble and is carried away in solution. Carbonation weathering occurs in warm, wet conditions.
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Salt weathering is when salt spray from the sea gets into a crack in a rock. It may evaporate and crystallise, putting pressure on the surrounding rock and weakening the structure.
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Mechanical weathering is the breakdown of rock without changing its chemical structure (composition).
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Littoral drift
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Wave energy reduces leading to material being deposited.
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The movement of sediment and beach material through wave action.
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Beach material is bounced along the seafloor.
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Beach material is suspended and carried by the waves.
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