Constructive waves

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Fetch, wind speed and wind duration.

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Swash

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Constructive wave

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A wave is a disturbance on the surface of the sea or ocean, in the form of a moving ridge or swell.

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Abrasion occurs as breaking waves, concentrated between the high and low watermarks, which contain sand and larger fragments wear away the base of a cliff or headland. It is commonly known as the sandpaper effect. This process is particularly common in high-energy storm conditions.

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Corrasion, abrasion, hydraulic action, attrition and corrosion/solution.

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Corrosion/solution is when certain types of cliff erode as a result of weak acids in the sea.

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Waves hitting the base of a cliff causes leads to air compression in cracks, joints and folds in bedding planes, causing repeated changes in air pressure. As air rushes out of the crack when the wave retreats, it leads to an explosive effect as pressure is released. This process is supported further by the weakening effect of weathering. The material breaks off cliffs, sometimes in huge chunks. This process is known as hydraulic action.

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Corrasion is when destructive waves pick up beach material (e.g. pebbles) and hurl them at the base of a cliff. Over time this can loosen cliff material forming a wave-cut notch.

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Freeze-thaw weathering occurs when rocks are porous (contain holes) or permeable (allow water to pass through). Water enters the rock and freezes. The ice expands by around 9%. This causes pressure on the rock until it cracks. Repeated freeze-thaw can cause the rock to break up.

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Mechanical weathering is the breakdown of rock without changing its chemical structure (composition).

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Chemical weathering is the breakdown of rock through changing its chemical composition.

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Salt weathering is when salt spray from the sea gets into a crack in a rock. It may evaporate and crystallise, putting pressure on the surrounding rock and weakening the structure.

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Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.

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Wave energy reduces leading to material being deposited.

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Traction – large pebbles and boulders are rolled along the seafloor.

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Solution, suspension, saltation and traction.

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Longshore drift happens when waves approach the beach at an angle. The swash (waves moving up the beach) carries material up and along the beach. The backwash (waves moving back down the beach) carries material back down the beach at right angles. This is the result of gravity. This process slowly moves material along the beach and provides a link between erosion and deposition. The material is transported through suspension, traction, solution and saltation. Longshore drift provides a link between erosion, transportation and deposition.

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Beach material is suspended and carried by the waves.

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