Weak swash, strong backwash.

Find out more about destructive waves.

Constructive waves

Find out more about constructive waves.

Destructive waves

Find out more about destructive waves.

Waves are caused by the transfer of energy from the wind to the sea due to the friction of the wind on the water’s surface.

Find out more about waves.

A wave is a disturbance on the surface of the sea or ocean, in the form of a moving ridge or swell.

Find out more about waves.

Corrasion, abrasion, hydraulic action, attrition and corrosion/solution.

Find out more about the processes of coastal erosion.

Attrition is when waves cause rocks and pebbles to bump into each other and break up.

Find out more about coastal erosion.

Coastal erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea.

Find out more about the processes of coastal erosion.

Corrasion is when destructive waves pick up beach material (e.g. pebbles) and hurl them at the base of a cliff. Over time this can loosen cliff material forming a wave-cut notch.

Find out more about coastal erosion.

Corrosion/solution is when certain types of cliff erode as a result of weak acids in the sea.

Find out more about the processes of coastal erosion.

Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.

Find out more about weathering.

Recently weathered rock can be seen at the foot of chalk and limestone cliffs and is easily identified because it is angular.

Find out more about weathering.

Freeze-thaw weathering occurs when rocks are porous (contain holes) or permeable (allow water to pass through). Water enters the rock and freezes. The ice expands by around 9%. This causes pressure on the rock until it cracks. Repeated freeze-thaw can cause the rock to break up.

Find out more about weathering.

Salt weathering is when salt spray from the sea gets into a crack in a rock. It may evaporate and crystallise, putting pressure on the surrounding rock and weakening the structure.

Find out more about weathering.

When rainwater hits rock it decomposes it or eats it away. This is known as carbonation. This occurs when slightly acidic (carbonic) rain or seawater comes into contact with sedimentary rock, such as limestone or chalk, it causes it to dissolve. A chemical reaction occurs between the acidic water and the calcium carbonate and forms calcium bicarbonate. This is soluble and is carried away in solution. Carbonation weathering occurs in warm, wet conditions.

Find out more about weathering.

Traction – large pebbles and boulders are rolled along the seafloor.

Find out more about coastal transportation.

Beach material is suspended and carried by the waves.

Find out more about coastal tansportation.

Solution, suspension, saltation and traction.

Find out more about coastal transportation.

Littoral drift

Find out more about longshore drift.

Longshore drift happens when waves approach the beach at an angle. The swash (waves moving up the beach) carries material up and along the beach. The backwash (waves moving back down the beach) carries material back down the beach at right angles. This is the result of gravity. This process slowly moves material along the beach and provides a link between erosion and deposition. The material is transported through suspension, traction, solution and saltation. Longshore drift provides a link between erosion, transportation and deposition.

Find out more about longshore drift.