Waves are caused by the transfer of energy from the wind to the sea due to the friction of the wind on the water’s surface.

Find out more about waves.

Constructive waves

Find out more about constructive waves.

Weak swash, strong backwash.

Find out more about destructive waves.

Constructive wave

Find out more about constructive waves.

Fetch, wind speed and wind duration.

Find out more about waves.

Corrasion is when destructive waves pick up beach material (e.g. pebbles) and hurl them at the base of a cliff. Over time this can loosen cliff material forming a wave-cut notch.

Find out more about coastal erosion.

Attrition is when waves cause rocks and pebbles to bump into each other and break up.

Find out more about coastal erosion.

Waves hitting the base of a cliff causes leads to air compression in cracks, joints and folds in bedding planes, causing repeated changes in air pressure. As air rushes out of the crack when the wave retreats, it leads to an explosive effect as pressure is released. This process is supported further by the weakening effect of weathering. The material breaks off cliffs, sometimes in huge chunks. This process is known as hydraulic action.

Find out more about coastal erosion.

Coastal erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea.

Find out more about the processes of coastal erosion.

The wearing away of land by the sea.

Find out more about coastal erosion.

Recently weathered rock can be seen at the foot of chalk and limestone cliffs and is easily identified because it is angular.

Find out more about weathering.

Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.

Find out more about weathering.

Freeze-thaw weathering occurs when rocks are porous (contain holes) or permeable (allow water to pass through). Water enters the rock and freezes. The ice expands by around 9%. This causes pressure on the rock until it cracks. Repeated freeze-thaw can cause the rock to break up.

Find out more about weathering.

Mechanical weathering is the breakdown of rock without changing its chemical structure (composition).

Find out more about weathering.

Chemical weathering is the breakdown of rock through changing its chemical composition.

Find out more about weathering.

Beach material is bounced along the seafloor.

Find out more about coastal transportation.

Beach material is suspended and carried by the waves.

Find out more about coastal tansportation.

Littoral drift

Find out more about longshore drift.

Material is dissolved and carried by the water.

Find out more about coastal transportation.

The movement of sediment and beach material through wave action.

Find out more about coastal transportation.