The distance a wave has travelled.
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Backwash
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Constructive and destructive waves.
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Swash
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Fetch, wind speed and wind duration.
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Waves hitting the base of a cliff causes leads to air compression in cracks, joints and folds in bedding planes, causing repeated changes in air pressure. As air rushes out of the crack when the wave retreats, it leads to an explosive effect as pressure is released. This process is supported further by the weakening effect of weathering. The material breaks off cliffs, sometimes in huge chunks. This process is known as hydraulic action.
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Abrasion occurs as breaking waves, concentrated between the high and low watermarks, which contain sand and larger fragments wear away the base of a cliff or headland. It is commonly known as the sandpaper effect. This process is particularly common in high-energy storm conditions.
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Corrasion is when destructive waves pick up beach material (e.g. pebbles) and hurl them at the base of a cliff. Over time this can loosen cliff material forming a wave-cut notch.
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Corrosion/solution is when certain types of cliff erode as a result of weak acids in the sea.
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Coastal erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea.
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Mechanical weathering is the breakdown of rock without changing its chemical structure (composition).
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Freeze-thaw weathering occurs when rocks are porous (contain holes) or permeable (allow water to pass through). Water enters the rock and freezes. The ice expands by around 9%. This causes pressure on the rock until it cracks. Repeated freeze-thaw can cause the rock to break up.
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Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.
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Salt weathering is when salt spray from the sea gets into a crack in a rock. It may evaporate and crystallise, putting pressure on the surrounding rock and weakening the structure.
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Recently weathered rock can be seen at the foot of chalk and limestone cliffs and is easily identified because it is angular.
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Traction – large pebbles and boulders are rolled along the seafloor.
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Beach material is suspended and carried by the waves.
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Longshore drift
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Material is dissolved and carried by the water.
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Wave energy reduces leading to material being deposited.
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