A wave is a disturbance on the surface of the sea or ocean, in the form of a moving ridge or swell.
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Destructive waves
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Constructive wave
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Fetch, wind speed and wind duration.
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Swash
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Attrition is when waves cause rocks and pebbles to bump into each other and break up.
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Abrasion occurs as breaking waves, concentrated between the high and low watermarks, which contain sand and larger fragments wear away the base of a cliff or headland. It is commonly known as the sandpaper effect. This process is particularly common in high-energy storm conditions.
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Waves hitting the base of a cliff causes leads to air compression in cracks, joints and folds in bedding planes, causing repeated changes in air pressure. As air rushes out of the crack when the wave retreats, it leads to an explosive effect as pressure is released. This process is supported further by the weakening effect of weathering. The material breaks off cliffs, sometimes in huge chunks. This process is known as hydraulic action.
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Corrosion/solution is when certain types of cliff erode as a result of weak acids in the sea.
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Coastal erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea.
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Chemical weathering is the breakdown of rock through changing its chemical composition.
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Salt weathering is when salt spray from the sea gets into a crack in a rock. It may evaporate and crystallise, putting pressure on the surrounding rock and weakening the structure.
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Mechanical weathering is the breakdown of rock without changing its chemical structure (composition).
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Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.
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Recently weathered rock can be seen at the foot of chalk and limestone cliffs and is easily identified because it is angular.
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Beach material is bounced along the seafloor.
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The movement of sediment and beach material through wave action.
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Traction – large pebbles and boulders are rolled along the seafloor.
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Wave energy reduces leading to material being deposited.
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Longshore drift
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