Waves are caused by the transfer of energy from the wind to the sea due to the friction of the wind on the water’s surface.

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Weak swash, strong backwash.

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Swash

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Constructive wave

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A wave is a disturbance on the surface of the sea or ocean, in the form of a moving ridge or swell.

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Corrasion, abrasion, hydraulic action, attrition and corrosion/solution.

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Coastal erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea.

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Attrition is when waves cause rocks and pebbles to bump into each other and break up.

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Corrosion/solution is when certain types of cliff erode as a result of weak acids in the sea.

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Corrasion is when destructive waves pick up beach material (e.g. pebbles) and hurl them at the base of a cliff. Over time this can loosen cliff material forming a wave-cut notch.

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When rainwater hits rock it decomposes it or eats it away. This is known as carbonation. This occurs when slightly acidic (carbonic) rain or seawater comes into contact with sedimentary rock, such as limestone or chalk, it causes it to dissolve. A chemical reaction occurs between the acidic water and the calcium carbonate and forms calcium bicarbonate. This is soluble and is carried away in solution. Carbonation weathering occurs in warm, wet conditions.

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Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.

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Recently weathered rock can be seen at the foot of chalk and limestone cliffs and is easily identified because it is angular.

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Salt weathering is when salt spray from the sea gets into a crack in a rock. It may evaporate and crystallise, putting pressure on the surrounding rock and weakening the structure.

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Mechanical weathering is the breakdown of rock without changing its chemical structure (composition).

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The movement of sediment and beach material through wave action.

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Solution, suspension, saltation and traction.

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Traction – large pebbles and boulders are rolled along the seafloor.

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Coastal transportation involves material being transported by the sea being deposited or dropped.

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Wave energy reduces leading to material being deposited.

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