Backwash

Find out more about waves.

Waves are caused by the transfer of energy from the wind to the sea due to the friction of the wind on the water’s surface.

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The distance a wave has travelled.

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Constructive waves

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Constructive and destructive waves.

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Coastal erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea.

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The wearing away of land by the sea.

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Waves hitting the base of a cliff causes leads to air compression in cracks, joints and folds in bedding planes, causing repeated changes in air pressure. As air rushes out of the crack when the wave retreats, it leads to an explosive effect as pressure is released. This process is supported further by the weakening effect of weathering. The material breaks off cliffs, sometimes in huge chunks. This process is known as hydraulic action.

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Corrasion is when destructive waves pick up beach material (e.g. pebbles) and hurl them at the base of a cliff. Over time this can loosen cliff material forming a wave-cut notch.

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Corrosion/solution is when certain types of cliff erode as a result of weak acids in the sea.

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Chemical weathering is the breakdown of rock through changing its chemical composition.

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Mechanical weathering is the breakdown of rock without changing its chemical structure (composition).

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Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.

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Salt weathering is when salt spray from the sea gets into a crack in a rock. It may evaporate and crystallise, putting pressure on the surrounding rock and weakening the structure.

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Recently weathered rock can be seen at the foot of chalk and limestone cliffs and is easily identified because it is angular.

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Solution, suspension, saltation and traction.

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Longshore drift happens when waves approach the beach at an angle. The swash (waves moving up the beach) carries material up and along the beach. The backwash (waves moving back down the beach) carries material back down the beach at right angles. This is the result of gravity. This process slowly moves material along the beach and provides a link between erosion and deposition. The material is transported through suspension, traction, solution and saltation. Longshore drift provides a link between erosion, transportation and deposition.

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Material is dissolved and carried by the water.

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The movement of sediment and beach material through wave action.

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Beach material is bounced along the seafloor.

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