Swash

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Destructive waves

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Constructive waves

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Weak swash, strong backwash.

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Fetch, wind speed and wind duration.

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Abrasion occurs as breaking waves, concentrated between the high and low watermarks, which contain sand and larger fragments wear away the base of a cliff or headland. It is commonly known as the sandpaper effect. This process is particularly common in high-energy storm conditions.

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Coastal erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea.

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Corrasion is when destructive waves pick up beach material (e.g. pebbles) and hurl them at the base of a cliff. Over time this can loosen cliff material forming a wave-cut notch.

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Corrasion, abrasion, hydraulic action, attrition and corrosion/solution.

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Attrition is when waves cause rocks and pebbles to bump into each other and break up.

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Recently weathered rock can be seen at the foot of chalk and limestone cliffs and is easily identified because it is angular.

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Chemical weathering is the breakdown of rock through changing its chemical composition.

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Salt weathering is when salt spray from the sea gets into a crack in a rock. It may evaporate and crystallise, putting pressure on the surrounding rock and weakening the structure.

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Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.

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Freeze-thaw weathering occurs when rocks are porous (contain holes) or permeable (allow water to pass through). Water enters the rock and freezes. The ice expands by around 9%. This causes pressure on the rock until it cracks. Repeated freeze-thaw can cause the rock to break up.

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Material is dissolved and carried by the water.

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Longshore drift happens when waves approach the beach at an angle. The swash (waves moving up the beach) carries material up and along the beach. The backwash (waves moving back down the beach) carries material back down the beach at right angles. This is the result of gravity. This process slowly moves material along the beach and provides a link between erosion and deposition. The material is transported through suspension, traction, solution and saltation. Longshore drift provides a link between erosion, transportation and deposition.

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The movement of sediment and beach material through wave action.

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Beach material is bounced along the seafloor.

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Beach material is suspended and carried by the waves.

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