A wave is a disturbance on the surface of the sea or ocean, in the form of a moving ridge or swell.

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Constructive waves

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Waves are caused by the transfer of energy from the wind to the sea due to the friction of the wind on the water’s surface.

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Constructive and destructive waves.

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The distance a wave has travelled.

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Attrition is when waves cause rocks and pebbles to bump into each other and break up.

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Coastal erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea.

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Corrasion is when destructive waves pick up beach material (e.g. pebbles) and hurl them at the base of a cliff. Over time this can loosen cliff material forming a wave-cut notch.

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Corrasion, abrasion, hydraulic action, attrition and corrosion/solution.

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Corrosion/solution is when certain types of cliff erode as a result of weak acids in the sea.

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Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.

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Salt weathering is when salt spray from the sea gets into a crack in a rock. It may evaporate and crystallise, putting pressure on the surrounding rock and weakening the structure.

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Freeze-thaw weathering occurs when rocks are porous (contain holes) or permeable (allow water to pass through). Water enters the rock and freezes. The ice expands by around 9%. This causes pressure on the rock until it cracks. Repeated freeze-thaw can cause the rock to break up.

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Recently weathered rock can be seen at the foot of chalk and limestone cliffs and is easily identified because it is angular.

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Chemical weathering is the breakdown of rock through changing its chemical composition.

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Littoral drift

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Longshore drift

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Longshore drift happens when waves approach the beach at an angle. The swash (waves moving up the beach) carries material up and along the beach. The backwash (waves moving back down the beach) carries material back down the beach at right angles. This is the result of gravity. This process slowly moves material along the beach and provides a link between erosion and deposition. The material is transported through suspension, traction, solution and saltation. Longshore drift provides a link between erosion, transportation and deposition.

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Material is dissolved and carried by the water.

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Traction – large pebbles and boulders are rolled along the seafloor.

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